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Kel-Tec PLR-16 Accessories: The Ultimate Owner's Guide

The Kel-Tec PLR-16 has earned its place as one of the most versatile and customizable pistol-caliber firearms on the market. Whether you're using your PLR-16 for tactical applications, recreational shooting, or home defense, the right accessories can dramatically improve its performance and handling characteristics.

This comprehensive guide covers the essential kel tec plr 16 accessories that every owner should consider, from factory-approved upgrades to popular aftermarket modifications that enhance accuracy, ergonomics, and functionality.

Understanding Your PLR-16's Platform

Before diving into specific accessories, it's important to understand what makes the PLR-16 unique. This pistol features an integrated Picatinny-style rail system, accepts standard AR-15 magazines, and comes with a 9.2-inch barrel threaded 1/2×28 for muzzle device compatibility. These factory features provide an excellent foundation for customization.

The PLR-16's design philosophy emphasizes modularity and adaptability. Unlike many pistol-caliber firearms that require specialized parts, the PLR-16 leverages common AR-15 components and mounting standards, making accessories both affordable and readily available.

Essential Factory Accessories

Compact Forend

One of the most popular kel-tec plr 16 accessories is the factory compact forend. This lightweight alternative to the standard forend reduces overall weight while improving the firearm's balance point. The compact forend features an ergonomic design that provides a secure grip without adding unnecessary bulk.

The compact forend is particularly beneficial for shooters with smaller hands or those who prefer a more streamlined profile. Installation is straightforward and requires no gunsmithing, making it an ideal first upgrade for new PLR-16 owners.

Sling Mount System

The factory sling mount enables attachment of single-point or traditional two-point sling systems. This accessory transforms the PLR-16 from a static range gun into a truly portable defensive or tactical tool. The sling mount is designed to withstand heavy use and provides multiple attachment points for different sling configurations.

Single-point slings work exceptionally well with the PLR-16's compact size, allowing for quick transitions between shooting positions. Two-point slings offer better weight distribution during extended carry periods.

Arm Brace Adapter Kit

For owners seeking improved stability and control, the arm brace adapter kit represents one of the most impactful kel-tec plr-16 accessories available. This factory accessory allows installation of a pistol stabilizing brace, significantly enhancing shooting accuracy and comfort.

The adapter kit maintains the PLR-16's pistol classification while providing a stable shooting platform. This is particularly valuable for precision shooting or when engaging targets at extended ranges.

Operational Enhancements

Upgraded Charging Handle

The standard PLR-16 charging handle gets the job done, but aftermarket options offer significant ergonomic improvements. Popular upgrades include the deflecting operating handle, which features a larger surface area and improved texture for positive manipulation, even with gloved hands.

An upgraded charging handle becomes essential when running the PLR-16 hard in competitive shooting or tactical scenarios where quick, reliable operation is critical.

Enhanced Takedown Pins

While the factory takedown pins are functional, upgraded versions offer tool-free field stripping and improved durability. These pins typically feature larger heads and captive springs that prevent loss during disassembly.

Enhanced takedown pins are particularly valuable for users who clean their firearms frequently or need to break down the gun quickly for transport or storage.

Rail Systems and Mounting Solutions

Quad Rail Systems

The PLR-16's integrated top rail provides excellent optic mounting capability, but adding a quad rail system opens up endless accessory mounting possibilities. Midwest Industries and other manufacturers offer drop-in quad rail solutions that replace the factory forend.

These systems typically provide multiple 3, 6, and 9 o'clock rail sections for mounting lights, lasers, grips, and other tactical accessories. The additional rail real estate transforms the PLR-16 into a highly customizable platform.

Picatinny Risers

For optimal optic mounting, particularly with larger scopes or when co-witnessing with iron sights, a 1-inch Picatinny riser can be invaluable. These accessories elevate the optic mounting surface, providing better sight alignment and improved cheek weld with stabilizing braces.

Quality risers maintain zero integrity while providing the height adjustment needed for various shooting applications and user preferences.

Muzzle Devices and Barrel Accessories

Muzzle Brakes

The PLR-16's 1/2×28 threaded barrel accepts a wide variety of muzzle devices. Compensators and muzzle brakes are among the most popular choices, effectively reducing felt recoil and muzzle rise during rapid fire sequences.

Quality muzzle brakes can noticeably improve follow-up shot speed and overall accuracy, particularly important given the PLR-16's short barrel and lightweight design.

Flash Hiders

For low-light applications or tactical use, flash hiders provide muzzle flash suppression without the significant weight penalty of a compensator. A3 Tactical flash hiders and similar designs offer excellent flash reduction while maintaining the PLR-16's compact profile.

Important Note: Kel-Tec does not recommend suppressing the PLR-16, so avoid suppressor-compatible muzzle devices unless you're certain they won't be used with silencers.

Optics and Sighting Solutions

Red Dot Sights

The PLR-16's flat-top receiver makes an excellent platform for red dot optics. Popular choices include Holosun, Vortex, and Primary Arms micro red dots that provide fast target acquisition without adding excessive weight.

When selecting a red dot, consider battery life, durability ratings, and reticle preferences. Many PLR-16 owners prefer larger window red dots for faster target acquisition in dynamic shooting scenarios.

Magnified Optics

For precision shooting applications, low-power variable optics (LPVO) in the 1-4x or 1-6x range work well with the PLR-16's intermediate cartridge performance. These optics provide versatility for both close-range and extended shooting.

Iron Sight Upgrades

While the PLR-16 comes with functional iron sights, many owners upgrade to flip-up BUIS (backup iron sights) that co-witness with optics. Magpul MBUS sights are a popular choice due to their durability and low profile.

Carrying and Storage Solutions

Soft Cases

Factory covert soft cases provide discrete transport for the PLR-16 and essential accessories. These cases typically feature padded interiors and external pockets for magazines and small accessories.

The covert design allows for low-profile transport without attracting unwanted attention, making them ideal for range trips or discrete storage.

Range Bags

A dedicated range bag designed for the PLR-16 can organize all your accessories, ammunition, and maintenance supplies in one convenient package. Look for bags with dedicated compartments for the firearm, magazines, and accessories.

Magazine Considerations

One of the PLR-16's greatest strengths is its compatibility with standard AR-15 magazines. This compatibility means you can choose from countless magazine options, from budget-friendly options to premium magazines designed for competition or tactical use.

Popular magazine choices include:

Magpul PMAGs for reliability and durability
Lancer magazines for translucent body monitoring
Okay Industries magazines for proven military reliability

Consider your intended use when selecting magazines. Range shooting might prioritize cost-effectiveness, while tactical applications demand proven reliability.

Installation and Compatibility Tips

When selecting kel-tec plr 16 accessories, always verify compatibility with your specific model and configuration. Some accessories may require minor fitting or professional installation, particularly complex rail systems or internal modifications.

Keep your factory parts in case you need to return the firearm to original configuration for warranty work or legal compliance in different jurisdictions.

Building Your Accessory Priority List

Start with accessories that address your primary shooting needs. A new shooter might prioritize a sling and basic optic, while competitive shooters might focus on precision accessories like upgraded triggers and match-grade barrels.

Consider your budget and build your PLR-16 over time rather than purchasing everything at once. This approach allows you to properly evaluate each upgrade's impact before moving to the next modification.

The PLR-16's accessory ecosystem continues growing as the platform gains popularity. Whether you're building a tactical setup, precision rifle, or versatile general-purpose firearm, the right combination of accessories can unlock your PLR-16's full potential.

At Wholesale Hunter, we stock a wide selection of PLR-16 accessories from trusted manufacturers, often at significant savings compared to retail prices. Our bulk purchasing power means better prices for serious shooters looking to get the most from their investment.

Best Shotgun Under $300: 7 Budget-Friendly Models That Actually Perform (2026 Buyer's Guide)

Finding a reliable shotgun under $300 doesn't mean you have to sacrifice quality or performance. Whether you're looking for home defense, hunting, or sport shooting, there are several excellent budget-friendly options that deliver dependable results without breaking the bank.

In today's market, you can find pump-action shotguns that offer the same core functionality as their more expensive counterparts. The key is knowing which models consistently perform and which features matter most for your intended use.

What to Look for in a Budget Shotgun

Before diving into our top picks, it's important to understand what separates a good budget shotgun from a disappointing purchase. Here are the essential factors to consider:

Reliability and Build Quality
Even at this price point, your shotgun should cycle smoothly and consistently. Look for models with proven track records and positive user reviews regarding feeding, extraction, and ejection.

Gauge and Capacity
12-gauge offers maximum stopping power and versatility, while 20-gauge provides less recoil with still-effective performance. Capacity typically ranges from 3+1 to 5+1 rounds in this price category.

Intended Use
Home defense shotguns benefit from shorter barrels (18-20 inches) and tactical features, while hunting applications may prefer longer barrels for better accuracy and range.

Our Top 7 Budget Shotgun Picks

1. Mossberg 88 Cruiser – $255

The Mossberg 88 Cruiser consistently ranks as the most reliable and dependable home defense shotgun under $300. Available in 20-gauge with a 5+1 capacity, this pump-action shotgun has earned its reputation as the "king of budget guns."

Key Features:

Dual extractors for reliable ejection
Positive steel-to-steel lockup
Cross-bolt safety
Compatible with most Mossberg 500 accessories

The Mossberg 88 series shares many components with the legendary Mossberg 500, which explains its exceptional reliability. The main difference lies in the trigger group assembly, but this doesn't impact performance for most users.

2. Stevens 320 Security – $200

At under $200, the Stevens 320 Security represents incredible value in the budget shotgun category. This 12-gauge model features a 5+1 capacity and delivers solid performance for both home defense and recreational shooting.

Key Features:

Rotary bolt design
Dual slide bars
Bead front sight
18.5-inch barrel

The Stevens 320 may not have all the bells and whistles of more expensive models, but it gets the job done reliably. Users report smooth cycling and consistent performance even after thousands of rounds.

3. Black Aces Tactical Pro Series S Max 517 – $300

Right at the $300 mark, the Black Aces Tactical Pro Series earned an "A" grade from Gun Tests magazine, outperforming many other shotguns in its category. This 12-gauge tactical shotgun offers premium features typically found in more expensive models.

Key Features:

Semi-automatic action
Tactical design elements
Reliable gas operation
Quality construction

While it maxes out your budget, the performance and build quality make it worth the investment for serious users who want semi-automatic capability.

4. Citadel CDP-12 Force Silver Marinecote – $149

For those working with an extremely tight budget, the Citadel CDP-12 Force offers functionality at just $149. This 12-gauge shotgun features a 3+1 capacity and marine-grade coating for corrosion resistance.

Key Features:

Marinecote finish
Pump-action reliability
Basic but functional design
Excellent entry-level option

While it may not have the refinement of pricier models, it provides reliable basic shotgun functionality for recreational shooting and home defense on a shoestring budget.

5. Armscor Rock Island VRF14 – $258

The Armscor Rock Island VRF14 brings solid build quality and reliable performance at $258. This 12-gauge pump-action features a 5+1 capacity and has earned praise for its smooth cycling and durability.

Key Features:

Chrome-lined barrel
Reliable extraction and ejection
Traditional pump-action design
Good value proposition

Armscor has built a reputation for producing functional firearms at budget prices, and the VRF14 continues that tradition with consistent performance.

6. SDS Imports TBP 12M – $179

At $179, the SDS Imports TBP 12M offers practical shotgun performance at one of the lowest price points available. This 12-gauge model features a 5-round capacity and straightforward pump-action operation.

Key Features:

Simple, reliable design
Affordable entry point
12-gauge versatility
Basic but functional

While it lacks premium features, it delivers the core functionality most users need for home defense or occasional recreational shooting.

7. Citadel BOSS-25 – $278

The Citadel BOSS-25 rounds out our list with tactical-oriented features and a 5+1 capacity for $278. This 12-gauge shotgun offers increased magazine capacity and tactical styling without exceeding your budget.

Key Features:

Extended magazine capacity
Tactical appearance
Pump-action reliability
Good value for tactical applications

For users who want a tactical-style shotgun without the premium price tag, the BOSS-25 delivers the look and functionality at a budget-friendly price.

Factors That Affect Performance in Budget Shotguns

Manufacturing Quality
Budget shotguns achieve their low prices through simplified manufacturing processes and less expensive materials. However, the best budget models still maintain essential quality standards where it matters most: the action, barrel, and safety mechanisms.

Ammunition Compatibility
Most budget shotguns handle standard ammunition reliably, but some may be sensitive to light target loads or specific shell lengths. Testing different ammunition types helps identify what works best in your specific shotgun.

Break-In Period
Budget shotguns often benefit from a break-in period of 100-200 rounds. During this time, the action smooths out, and any initial stiffness in the mechanism typically resolves itself.

Making Your Budget Shotgun Purchase Decision

When choosing among these seven options, consider your primary intended use:

For Home Defense: The Mossberg 88 Cruiser or Stevens 320 Security offer the best combination of reliability and appropriate features.

For Semi-Auto Performance: The Black Aces Tactical Pro Series provides semi-automatic capability at the top of your budget.

For Maximum Value: The Citadel CDP-12 Force at $149 delivers basic functionality at an incredibly low price.

For Tactical Applications: The Citadel BOSS-25 offers tactical features and extended capacity.

Final Thoughts

A $300 budget doesn't limit you to unreliable or poorly-made shotguns. Each model on our list has proven itself in real-world use, offering dependable performance for home defense, hunting, or recreational shooting.

The Mossberg 88 Cruiser stands out as our top overall recommendation due to its exceptional reliability and compatibility with Mossberg 500 accessories. However, any of these seven shotguns will serve you well within their intended applications.

Remember that a good shotgun is an investment in your safety and shooting enjoyment. While staying within budget is important, prioritize reliability and quality over features you may not actually need. With proper care and maintenance, any of these budget shotguns will provide years of dependable service.

Best Shotgun Under $300: 7 Budget-Friendly Models That Actually Perform (2026 Buyer's Guide)

What to Look for in a Budget Shotgun

Before diving into our top picks, it's important to understand what separates a good budget shotgun from a disappointing purchase. Here are the essential factors to consider:

Intended Use
Home defense shotguns benefit from shorter barrels (18-20 inches) and tactical features, while hunting applications may prefer longer barrels for better accuracy and range.

Our Top 7 Budget Shotgun Picks

1. Mossberg 88 Cruiser – $255

Key Features:

Dual extractors for reliable ejection
Positive steel-to-steel lockup
Cross-bolt safety
Compatible with most Mossberg 500 accessories

2. Stevens 320 Security – $200

Key Features:

Rotary bolt design
Dual slide bars
Bead front sight
18.5-inch barrel

3. Black Aces Tactical Pro Series S Max 517 – $300

Key Features:

Semi-automatic action
Tactical design elements
Reliable gas operation
Quality construction

While it maxes out your budget, the performance and build quality make it worth the investment for serious users who want semi-automatic capability.

4. Citadel CDP-12 Force Silver Marinecote – $149

Key Features:

Marinecote finish
Pump-action reliability
Basic but functional design
Excellent entry-level option

While it may not have the refinement of pricier models, it provides reliable basic shotgun functionality for recreational shooting and home defense on a shoestring budget.

5. Armscor Rock Island VRF14 – $258

Key Features:

Chrome-lined barrel
Reliable extraction and ejection
Traditional pump-action design
Good value proposition

Armscor has built a reputation for producing functional firearms at budget prices, and the VRF14 continues that tradition with consistent performance.

6. SDS Imports TBP 12M – $179

Key Features:

Simple, reliable design
Affordable entry point
12-gauge versatility
Basic but functional

While it lacks premium features, it delivers the core functionality most users need for home defense or occasional recreational shooting.

7. Citadel BOSS-25 – $278

Key Features:

Extended magazine capacity
Tactical appearance
Pump-action reliability
Good value for tactical applications

For users who want a tactical-style shotgun without the premium price tag, the BOSS-25 delivers the look and functionality at a budget-friendly price.

Factors That Affect Performance in Budget Shotguns

Making Your Budget Shotgun Purchase Decision

When choosing among these seven options, consider your primary intended use:

For Home Defense: The Mossberg 88 Cruiser or Stevens 320 Security offer the best combination of reliability and appropriate features.

For Semi-Auto Performance: The Black Aces Tactical Pro Series provides semi-automatic capability at the top of your budget.

For Maximum Value: The Citadel CDP-12 Force at $149 delivers basic functionality at an incredibly low price.

For Tactical Applications: The Citadel BOSS-25 offers tactical features and extended capacity.

Final Thoughts

How-Sezzle-Works

Buy Now. Pay Later. No Interest

WHICH 7MM FOR YOU?

For a generation, the default position for a fast, flat-shooting, hard-hitting cartridge has been 7mm, .284-inch. In the 1950s, while Jack O’Connor was touting his beloved .270s, other notables like Les Bowman and Warren Page were pushing the fast 7mm with its traditionally long, heavy-for-caliber bullets. Oddly, Remington’s excellent .280 Remington (1957) on the .30-06 case didn’t take off. Neither did the belted 7×61 Sharpe & Hart. Probably because of availability, it was only factory-chambered by Danish firm of Schultz & Larsen.

Craig Boddington

We Americans love our .30-calibers. The .30-06 is still popular and powerful. It’s little brother, the .308 Winchester is, after the .223, America’s most popular centerfire. These days, many folks want to shoot a bit farther, so we want faster cartridges that shoot flatter. Plenty of fast .30s, but with speed comes recoil. For many, a magnum .30-caliber is too much of a good thing. And, unless we do a lot of hunting for game larger than deer, magnum .30 performance isn’t necessary.

Boddington, Charlie Barnes of Flat Creek Precision, and Zack Aultman, on Zack’s range in Georgia…messing with a Flat Creek 7 PRC.

ARE IRON SIGHTS OBSOLETE?

Magnifying riflescopes aren’t new. Limited use in the American Civil War, and a few bison hunters used scopes in the 1870s. Scopes improved and became more popular in the 20th Century, but only came into widespread use after WWII.

By Craig Boddington

Magnifying riflescopes aren’t new. Limited use in the American Civil War, and a few bison hunters used scopes in the 1870s. Scopes improved and became more popular in the 20^th Century, but only came into widespread use after WWII.

As a youngster, I learned to shoot with open-sighted .22s, rifles and handguns, but I did my first hunting in the ‘60s with fixed 4X scopes. I never hunted with iron sights until 1979. By then, I had my first variable, a 3-9X Redfield. Wow, that huge image made shot placement so easy. Today variable magnification runs deep into double digits, along with scopes that incorporate laser rangefinders and yield shooting solutions. Just yesterday I went to the range and zeroed a Pulsar thermal imaging riflescope.

With such advancements, are iron sights still useful? Despite magnifying scopes, lasers, and reflex sights, open sights still dominate in handgunning, because ranges are short, and because a handgun with an optic is more difficult to carry and holster. In the rifle world, generations have grown up shooting and hunting with scopes.

Boddington and Tim Baugh with a fine Kansas whitetail, taken with a classic 6.5x54 Mannlicher with factory open sights. In order to assure a close shot, Baugh used an archery stand in thick woods. As often happens, enough light to see the sights was an issue, but patience paid off. — Boddington and Tim Baugh with a fine Kansas whitetail, taken with a classic 6.5×54 Mannlicher with factory open sights. In order to assure a close shot, Baugh used an archery stand in thick woods. As often happens, enough light to see the sights was an issue, but patience paid off.

This is sad. Much to be gained by learning to shoot with iron sights. One quickly learns slight aiming errors cause huge differences. Daughters Brittany and Caroline had no interest in shooting or hunting until they were mid-teenage. Then, as if a switch was turned, both suddenly wanted to go hunting with Dad. I made mistakes with both. We began with scoped .22s, but I skipped starting them with iron sights. They shoot well, but they missed the valuable lessons of carefully aligning front and rear sights.

Boddington is about to drop the hammer on a Texas hog, using a Winchester 94 in .30-30 with factory iron sights. Although adequate light is always an issue, feral hogs are ideal game for iron sights: You can usually get close enough, and often get multiple opportunities.

Eastern deer hunters who started with Grand-dad’s .30-30 received this training. So did all veterans…until adoption of the ACOG riflescope. Today, many younger hunters have little or no experience with iron sights. Regrettable they don’t have that background, no way to appreciate how spoiled we are by magnifying riflescopes, or the fun and frustration of iron sights.

There are two types of iron sights: Open and aperture. The open sight is typically a blade or bead front sight, which must be visually centered in the notch of a rear sight, usually a V or U. The aperture or “peep” sight uses a similar front sight, with an open circle rear sight, in which the front sight must be centered, then superimposed on the target.

On both open and aperture sights the front sight is normally a blade (left), or a bead. Boddington prefers a bold bead of about 3/32-inch diameter. A large bead obscures more of the target but is easier to see and faster to acquire.

Open sights require the eye to focus in three focal planes: Rear sight, front sight, target. The aperture sight reduces this to two: The eye naturally centers the front sight in the circle. The rear sight “fuzzes out,” but the eye must focus on front sight and target. The riflescope reduces this to just one focal plane: All the eye must do is focus on the target and superimpose the reticle. Same with the reflex or “red dot” sight, which has only existed since the Aimpoint came out in 1975.

With good vision and adequate light, peep sights are capable of superb accuracy. Up until a decade ago, Boddington could regularly produce groups like this with apertures. This is a 1930s RF Sedgely Springfield, fitted with receiver-mounted aperture.

Capability with iron sights depends largely on size of target and visual acuity (which tends to diminish with age). When I was young, I could resolve open sights beyond 200 yards. Today, less than half. Before scopes, the aperture sight was the “precision” sight. In the Marines, we qualified annually to 500 yards with peep sights, and much 1000-yard competition is still done with apertures.

Qualification day at Edson Range, Camp Pendleton. Until the recent adoption of Trijicon’s ACOG scope all Marines shot out to 500 yards with aperture sights.

With all open sights, as distance increases, the front sight subtends (obscures) more of the target. Absent magnification, same with red dots. A greater limitation to open sights: They require good light. With age, night vision tends to diminish along with overall acuity.

So, sights with lenses that admit more light are always superior in those critical periods at dawn and dusk, aided further by lighted reticles or the illuminated red dot. The only real disadvantage to both scopes and red dots: They are an additional appendage, adding weight and bulk. We have this idea that iron sights are more rugged and goof-proof than optical sights. This can be true, but usually isn’t. Today, factory-supplied iron sights are often flimsy, seemingly supplied primarily for “looks,” little thought they might actually be used. I’ve seen many more iron sights bend, break, and come out of zero than I’ve had trouble with scopes.

This herd is just over 100 yards away, no more cover and no more options. If a bull steps out it’s a simple shot with a magnifying scope, do-able with a red dot…but much too far for a safe shot with iron sights.

Still, scopes and red dot sights remain non-traditional with various types of hunting rifles. To the point that we, including me, stubbornly insist on using iron sights. Good examples are double rifles and traditional lever-actions. I like both types so, in recent years, I’ve been doing more hunting with iron sights than I did when I was young.

This sporterized 1903 Springfield .30-06 was Boddington’s first centerfire rifle, mounted with a Williams aperture on the rear receiver ring. As a youngster, he never hunted with this rifle; he was nearly 40 when he used it for this California feral hog.

There’s a caution here: Iron sights are difficult. At middle-age, kids gone, mortgage paid, we may wake up one morning with the means to acquire a classic double or fine old Winchester. The expertise to effectively use iron sights doesn’t come with the purchase. Steep learning curve, especially if you didn’t grow up shooting irons.

Boddington on the range with his Heym .450/.400-3” double, mounted with an Aimpoint red dot sight. Boddington agrees that optics look terrible on classic doubles. However, as his vision restricts iron sight use, optics enhance accuracy, range, and versatility.

We have this romantic idea that big-bore double rifles should wear “express” open sights. And older top-eject lever-actions defy conventional scope mounting. Fine. Make a commitment to lots of practice, understand you must keep your ranges short, and accept that you’re going to give up potential shots. Especially at dawn and dusk.

To some extent, it depends on what’s more important to you: The hunt or the game. Or, if you’re a “gun guy,” the opportunity to use a certain rifle. Couple seasons back, at our Kansas farm, Tim Baugh wanted to use his late father’s open-sighted 6.5×54 Mannlicher,. Light comes late in our thick woods and leaves early. I put him in a stand set up for archery. He saw deer early and late, couldn’t see his sights, stayed patient, shot a fine buck on his fourth morning.

Although open express sights are most common on double rifles there are other options. This .303 double has a flip-up aperture on the tang, greatly increasing accuracy and versatility. These are descending pairs from both barrels after sight adjustments.

Unless very close, I much prefer apertures to open sights. I’ve used receiver-mounted peep sights on lever-actions for decades, and I have a double rifle in .303 British with flip-up peep on the tang. With adequate light, I’m still good to beyond 100 yards.

Until the 1940s the aperture was the precision hunting sight. Boddington used a 1930s .30-06 Springfield by RF Sedgely to take this Colorado bull, one shot at about 125 yards.

The good news: If you have 100 yards of effective range, you’re in good shape for much hunting. Just understand you can’t always get that close. I’m not going sheep hunting with iron sights. Although, before 1940, everyone did. I’m reluctant to use iron sights for whitetails. Not a matter of distance, but light.

This Alberta black bear was taken with a Big Horn Armory M89 in .500 S&W. The “guide gun” is popular today, often mounted with a “ghost ring” aperture like the Skinner sight on this rifle. Getting close enough to take black bears with iron sights is often possible, but light can be an issue.

I often use iron sights for feral hogs and black bears. With hogs, I can usually get close enough. If I can’t, another opportunity is likely. On black bears, light is the issue. Couple years ago, I took a peep-sighted .348 Winchester into an Idaho bear blind. Also, a scoped rifle. Had a bear on the bait, too dark to see the front sight. I switched rifles and shot the bear. If you’re really a gun guy, that was serious cheating.

Big-bores doubles traditionally wear fixed open sights. Strong and sturdy, short in range. Perfect for PHs, who only fire in emergencies. For you and me, questionable for buffalo because, with herd animals, tough to get close enough. Can be done, and I have…always with the understanding that I must pass on many potential shots. Optical sights look awful on a classic double, but they are practical. In recent years, as iron sights grew harder to resolve, I’ve choked it up and put red dots and scopes doubles.

Recently, we’ve seen a resurgence in aperture sights. Thanks somewhat to the popularity of the big-bore lever-action “guide gun,” commonly mounted with a large-opening rear aperture that we call a “ghost ring.” Not as precise as a target aperture with tiny opening, but faster, adequate for shooting game to at least 100 yards. This type of lever-action is popular with wilderness wanderers in bear country, also carried by some Alaskan guides. Good choice for both.

This is the kind of encounter buffalo hunters hope for. If you can get this close, iron sights are wonderful. Problem is, with herd animals like buffalo, getting within sure iron sight range isn’t always possible.

As with Cape buffalo, not ideal for you and me to carry on a hunt for grizzly or Alaskan brown bear. Such hunts often come down to just one chance. This past year I considered taking a big lever-action on an Alaskan hunt, talked myself out of it and went with a scoped .338. My chance came at 225 yards, foolish shot with any iron sight, regardless of expertise.

Although scopes and red dots are commonly used, iron sights still dominate in handgunning to keep the profile trimmer. This is a favorite hunting handgun, a SIW M29, always used with iron sights. Just need to keep shots close.

There are many close-range hunting situations where iron sights remain suitable. If you can get close enough and have enough light. In the entire spectrum of world-wide big-game hunting, I can only come up with three situations where iron sights are superior. First is during wind-driven precipitation, too hard and fast to keep a lens clear.

Boddington and Idaho houndsman Bruce Duncan with a good mountain lion. Duncan’s M94 .30-30 is a classic houndsman’s rifle: Short, light, easy to scramble with in tough country…and no scope.

Another is hunting with hounds. Houndsmen are justifiably concerned for their dogs’ safety. They worry about the “tunnel vision” effect of magnifying scopes; some houndsmen do not allow use of scopes. The range is short enough, and a sleek, un-scoped rifle (or handgun) is a blessing in the mad scramble to get to the hounds.

Elephants are almost always encountered—and taken—at extremely close range. Magnifying scopes aren’t needed, and Boddington believes they are dangerous in this application because of the potential “tunnel vision” effect.

A third is hunting elephant. 25 yards is a long shot. Magnification isn’t needed, and the tunnel vision effect is dangerous. Not just the risk of seeing a wall of gray hide. The greater is other, unseen elephants. You need peripheral vision. With hounds and hunting elephant, a red dot sight is a sound alternative, but in these specialized situations, iron sights are superior.

CHOOSING VARMINT CARTRIDGES

By Craig Boddington

Although there are many other good choices, these are Boddington’s favorite varmint cartridges, left to right: .17 HMR, .22 Hornet, .204 Ruger, .223 Rem, .22-250. On a given day, which is used depends on game, distance, and wind.

When selecting a hunting cartridge, three considerations are most important: Accuracy, shooting ranges, and power, all adequate for the game to be hunted. These apply for hunting any game from prairie dogs to pachyderms.

For varmints, power might seem a silly consideration, so let’s consider that first. The word “varmint” is uniquely American, a corruption from the English “vermin.” The implication is noxious pests, generally removed with minimal restrictions (such as seasons, bag limits, and license requirements). The game Americans generally consider “varmints” range from grass-eating and hole-digging rodents up to coyotes. The distinction can change. In British East Africa (now Kenya and Tanzania), lions were classed as vermin until late in the game. In Europe, the marmot (relative to our woodchuck) is highly prized, often hunted with seasons and limits. In North America, “furbearers” often have separate seasons, sometimes a separate license.

Coyotes are extremely tough animals, but almost all centerfire cartridges are more than adequate. This coyote was taken with a 6.5 PRC, plenty of gun but from .223 Remington upward pelt damage is inevitable.

Because of numbers and voracious predation, rules for coyotes are usually liberal. It’s old Wile E. Coyote that calls up the power question on varmint cartridges. From small gophers to the largest woodchuck, any of the rimfires on up are powerful enough, just a matter of how close you must get.

Coyotes are different, pound for pound for pound very tough animals. Power doesn’t matter so much if the encounter is close. However, unless one is calling, coyote encounters aren’t often close. For me, coyote hunting is a centerfire game. Which one depends on required range, and whether pelt damage is a concern. Serious callers (which I am not) often use shotguns with heavy charges of coarse shot. Easier to hit moving coyotes coming to the call, and minimal pelt damage past 25 yards.

For a May 2024 prairie dog shoot in Wyoming Gordon Marsh hauled the guns. These include .17 HMR, .22 Hornet, .204 Ruger, .223 Rem, and .22-250, a fine selection for all ranges and conditions.

The .17 Remington was developed in Australia, no coyotes but problems with non-native foxes. Light, frangible .17-caliber bullets tend to enter and come apart without exiting, so wonderfully effective without ruining the pelt. The popular .17 HMR rimfire is an awesome medium-range varmint cartridge, but marginally powerful for coyotes unless the shot is close. Today we have centerfire .17s from .17 Hornet up through grand-dad .17 Rem. Plus the rimfire .17 Winchester Super Magnum and the .22 WMR. All are adequate for coyotes, effective range depending on velocity. Above that, the .204 Ruger and all the .22 centerfires are fine for coyotes.

Hornady’s Seth Swerczek with a .17 HMR, shooting prairie dogs from field positions. The little .17 HMR punches far above its weight class, surprisingly effective to 200 yards…until the wind comes up.

I do little specific coyote hunting. The majority I take are targets of opportunity while hunting other game. This means I’m usually carrying a centerfire adequate for deer-sized game. Effective for coyote control, but don’t expect salvageable skins. A partial compromise is to use a milder .22 centerfire like the .223 Rem with non-expanding military or FMJ match bullets. Caliber-size entrance and exit holes are common. Just check your regs; non-expanding bullets aren’t legal for hunting in some jurisdictions. Also, poor choices for other varminting. Frangible “varmint” bullets aren’t quick-expanding just for explosive effect; also, to reduce ricochet.

They look cute, but prairie dogs consume prodigious quantities of grass and destroy pasture with burrows and mounds. They offer a target of maybe 12x3 inches, a difficult mark on the usually-windy prairie. — They look cute, but prairie dogs consume prodigious quantities of grass and destroy pasture with burrows and mounds. They offer a target of maybe 12×3 inches, a difficult mark on the usually-windy prairie.

The varmint hunting I know best is small rodents: Ground squirrels in California, prairie dogs on the Great Plains, both found in colonies. I’ve done some rockchuck shooting in the West, but I can count all the woodchucks I’ve shot without taking my shoes off. Power isn’t an issue. I’ve had great fun shooting prairie dogs with .22 Long Rifle hollowpoints, Some serious Eastern hunters make a game of stalking woodchucks with rimfires.

Introduced 96 years ago as America’s first varmint cartridge, the little .22 Hornet is faster and more effective than it looks. Also shockingly accurate, as proven by this CZ .22 Hornet.

Wherever, shooting rodents isn’t about raw power, but about accuracy and range, which sort of go together. Prairie dog shooting is perhaps the most demanding of raw accuracy. Small targets open country, usually windy. An adult prairie dog might offer a target as much as twelve inches nose to tail, more like three inches from brisket to backline. Presentation may be anything, but is usually either standing vertically, or horizontal. Either way, there’s a large target in one direction, very small the other.

We typically judge rifle accuracy by average group size. In America, usually at 100 yards. For a hunting rifle, the Holy Grail is generally one Minute of Angle (MOA), even for mountain game. One MOA means one inch at 100 yards, natural dispersion spreading to two inches at 200 yards, three inches at 300 yards, and so forth.

The Ruger No. 1 isn’t known for tack-driving accuracy, but heavy-barreled models are often surprising. This is Boddington’s favorite varmint rifle, a stainless-and-laminate No. 1 in .204, a genuine half-MOA rifle.

On the windy prairies, and with animals often moving while bullets are in flight, there’s no such thing as hitting prairie dogs with every shot. I prefer hitting to missing. When I inevitably miss, I like to understand why, then correct with the next shot. Doesn’t do me any good to miss because I’m out of accuracy. So, for a general-purpose prairie dog rifle, one MOA accuracy isn’t enough. That means I’m beyond Minute of Prairie Dog at 300 yards. That’s a fair poke on a prairie dog-sized target, nobody hits them all. However, if you start with one-inch groups at 100 yards, naturally expanding groups will cause misses beyond 300 yards. Since I like hits better than misses, I expect a serious prairie dog rifle to do better. No such thing as too much accuracy for small varmints. Also, no limited to how far one can shoot at prairie dogs! Only a few blessed and gifted rifle barrels will deliver one half MOA groups on a consistent basis, but that’s the goal.

This heavy-barreled Ruger No. 1 in .204 Ruger belongs to Gordon Marsh. He and Boddington both believe the .204 is the best all-around choice for prairie dogs: Plenty of range, but mild recoil allows calling shots through the scope.

It’s not about cartridges. However, my heavy-barreled Ruger No. 1 in .204 Ruger will do that. In May 2024, I was delighted to see that friend and prairie dog shooting partner Gordon Marsh found a No. 1 in .204 that will also do that. I’ve had various other .22 centerfires that grouped as well or better, also 6mms and some larger cartridges.

That level of accuracy is not essential. It’s just that, with less accuracy, effective range is limited. Well, absent wind-bucking and trajectory-flattening velocity, range is limited anyway. On prairie dogs, that’s part of the fun; just depends on how personal you take misses.

Gordon Marsh on the bench in a prairie dog town with his heavy-barreled Savage .22-250. When the wind comes up and shots are long, it’s time for the “big gun.”

The last time I shot prairie dogs with a .22 rimfire was with a Ruger 10/22 target rifle. It averaged .75-inch 50-yard groups across several loads. Theoretically, Minute of Prairie Dog to 400 yards. Between ridiculous holdover, huge wind deflection, and long flight time, you’re not going to hit many prairie dogs at 400 yards with a .22 Long Rifle. Once I figured holdover and wind, it was deadly at 100 yards, and I was surprised at how consistently I could hit at 150 yards. Then, I was done, time to break out a faster cartridge.

An accurate .22 LR is a wonderful varmint rifle, just need to keep shots short. This Ruger 10/22 target model was wonderful fun on prairie dogs, effective to a bit past 100 yards.

In our prairie dog group, Bill Green and Ronnie Whitten love their .17 HMRs. Amazing accuracy, uncanny performance. I’ve seen them hit prairie dogs at 300 yards too often to be flukes. However, the .17-caliber’s light bullets are extremely susceptible to wind, great training to learn to deal with it, but the .17 HMR is pretty much done at 200 yards.

Gordon Marsh in a Wyoming prairie dog town with his suppressed CZ .22 Hornet, amazingly effective to nearly 300 yards. Behind him, Bill Green is shooting a .223, always an effective varmint cartridge.

This year, Gordon borrowed another page from my book and also brought a CZ .22 Hornet. Introduced in 1930, the Hornet is America’s first factory varmint cartridge. Despite its archaic rimmed, tapered case, it is shockingly accurate and surprisingly fast; lighter bullets can be loaded to nearly 3000 fps. Fitted with a suppressor, the little Hornet turned out to be Gordon’s primary prairie dog rifle this year. When it was calm, I was impressed to see how consistently he was hitting clear to 300 yards. When the wind came up, he was done, needed something faster.

Left, a heavy-barreled .22-250; right, a .25-06. Both these rifles have the extreme accuracy needed for long-range varminting. A .25-06 with light bullets is probably the most powerful cartridge that makes sense for varminting. Above .22, a primary drawback is too much recoil.

Since power isn’t an issue, prairie dogs can be shot with anything that’s accurate enough. Kansas friend Vance Cain told me he used to shoot prairie dogs with his .458. When I was a kid, I shot a lot of prairie dogs with my .264, and my “go-to” was a .243. Many folks use various 6mms and .25-calibers with light bullets. The .22-250 reigns as the most popular “fast” varmint cartridge. I used the .22-250 for years, and Gordon always has his heavy-barreled Savage .22-250, his “big gun,” brought out when the wind comes up or only distant ‘dogs are visible.

A 6mm ARC set up in a prairie dog town. Accurate and flat-shooting, all the 6mms are effective for varminting. The major drawback: Too much recoil to call shots through the scope.

There are many great varmint cartridges: All the .17s, .20s, .22s, even the 6mms and .25s if one prefers. Some are old, some new. Both the 6mm ARC and brand-new .22 ARC have been wonderfully successful. The .22 ARC has similar velocity to .22-250, but AR-compatible, and barreled with faster twist to use heavier bullets, which buck wind better, but produce more recoil.

Unlike much varmint shooting, prairie dogs tend to offer multiple opportunities. So, for me the ideal prairie dog rifle has lots of reach, but mild enough recoil to allow calling shots through the scope. Call the wind, take the shot, see the strike, reload and adjust. The .223 allows this. Unless very heavy, the .22-250 bounces just a bit too much, as do all larger cartridges. The .204 is faster but, with lighter bullets, has less recoil; it has become my favorite all-around varmint cartridge.

PRAIRIE DOGS AND PLAINS GAME

these days, long-range shooting is “in,” with many shooters working hard to expand their range envelopes. There’s a lot to this. Knowledge of trajectory, art of reading wind. Cheek weld, breathing, consistent trigger press.

Craig Boddington

These days, long-range shooting is “in,” with many shooters working hard to expand their range envelopes. There’s a lot to this. Knowledge of trajectory, art of reading wind. Cheek weld, breathing, consistent trigger press. At distance, all the little things matter. However, in all field shooting, getting steady enough to take the shot is critical. Just how steady one needs to be is a relative thing; depends on distance and size of target. Successful field shooters learn how to get steady—enough—from a wide variety of field positions.

Sticks-Tripod-P-Dog — Sticks tripod P-Dog: Prairie dog “practice,” using three-legged African shooting sticks, broken down for a sitting position. If you can hit prairie dogs consistently, no big game shooting is daunting.

In a few days, I’m headed to a near-annual prairie dog shoot in eastern Wyoming with friend Gordon Marsh, proprietor of this site. We’ll start shooting from portable benches, not as steady as a concrete bench, but better than any field position. A prairie dog offers a target about two inches by six. At 300 or 400 yards, not much to shoot at.

For field shooting, the prairie dog is the best teacher I know, not just because the mark is small, but because of windy prairie. Doesn’t take much breeze to blow a light varmint bullet clear off the mound. I was fortunate to do a lot of prairie dog shooting when I was young, great training. I still look forward to every refresher course. Typically, I’ll shoot for a while off the bench. Great for precision, but limited learning from the great teacher. After a while, I’ll rove the edges of a colony, shooting from field positions. Hit ratio goes down, but this is the best training of all.

Sticks-Javelin — The Javelin bipod/tripod system from Spartan can be variously configured, including as a dead-steady fore-and-aft system

For most long-range shooters, a bipod is a primary stability tool. With practice, prone off a bipod is almost as steady as the bench. Tricks include loading the bipod with forward pressure, using a light sandbag under the butt to get the height perfect, then using a daypack under your supporting elbow. Many long-range shooting instructors stress use of a bipod. To a fault, because no single solution works under all conditions.

Sticks-fore-and-aft-P-Dog — Sticks fore-and-aft P-Dog: Boddington “working out” with fore-and-aft sticks in a prairie dog town. This was the first time he used this type of sticks. Steep learning curve but, once you get the hang of them, the stability is marvelous.

Late spring is also the start of peak safari season in Southern Africa. Not uncommon for me to train on prairie dogs, then get serious on plains game. This year I’m going straight from Wyoming to Mozambique. Here’s something prairie dogs and plains game have in common: Prone-off-bipod isn’t a good solution for either. Where we shoot prairie dogs, sagebrush gets in the way, precluding prone. Sometimes you can lay on top of an old mound and gain a bit of elevation. Just be careful of flopping down on the prickly little prairie cacti. And be mindful of prairie rattlers. In Africa, all plants have nasty thorns and low vegetation often precludes a prone position. Never mind the creepy-crawlies that might be on the ground.

Sticks-fore-and-aft — Sticks fore-and-aft: In South Africa’s Eastern Cape, these hunters are set up to take a long shot off of fore-and-aft sticks. Look at the typical vegetation; this is why African hunters use elevated shooting sticks…to get above that stuff.

I’ve carried bipods in open country since I was young. The Harris bipod was the original and still excellent, attaching to the fore-end via the front sling swivel stud. For pronghorns, I like models with extending legs long enough for a sitting position, getting you over low vegetations. With the popularity of long-range shooting, there are now many options from several makers. These days I usually carry a light carbon fiber Javelin bipod, either on my belt or accessible on my daypack. The Javelin attaches via a strong magnet that replaces the front swivel stud, quickly available when needed, not on the rifle when not.

I’m not an extreme-range shooter on game, very much a “get as close as I can guy.” For sure, I won’t back up to take a shot! However, I’d rather have a deliberate steady shot at distance, rather than risk bumping an animal.

Sticks-fore-and-aft practice — Sticks fore-and-aft practice: On the range in Mozambique, PH Ben Rautenbach demonstrates how to set the rifle on fore-and-aft sticks. With practice, this new breed of shooting sticks can essentially double one’s effective range off of stick.

While I take few animals from a classic prone-with-bipod setup, I still find the bipod a useful tool. Often, I’ll put the legs on a rock or log, or on top of a pack to, to get the height right, or to get over low vegetation. Any potential field shooting positions, no matter how weird, can be practiced on the range…or in a prairie dog town.

The problem with bipods or any other favorite shooting position: Too easy to get complacent, married to one shooting solution. I’ll have a bipod in Wyoming, keep it handy in Africa, doubt I’ll use it over there.

Sticks-double-2 — Using two sets of sticks on a wide-open Mozambique floodplain, Boddington took this hartebeest at 425 yards. With one set under fore-end, the other under buttstock, near-benchrest stability is achieved.

Last few years, in larger safari camps. I’ve been surprised at how many Americans bring long-range rigs to Africa, suggesting to me that I haven’t appreciated the breadth and popularity of the extreme-range movement. Mostly good. Fast 7mms and .300s with heavy bullets are perfect for African plains game,. Good scopes help everywhere, and there are places over there where you can reach out: Hills, mountains, deserts, floodplains. However, I’m disturbed by the number of hunters I see who struggle because they expect to lie prone with bipod, like their instructors taught them. For this I blame American shooting instructors, awesome technical marksmen, but lacking in either field experience or imagination.

Sticks-chicken wing: The “chicken wing”: Using a second set of sticks under the shooting-side armpit. Amazing how much extra stability this offers

Set-piece prone with bipod rarely works in Africa. There are good reasons why African hunters have long relied on three-legged shooting sticks. Fast to set up, fast to get into position. Standing on sticks, you are above the thorns, and can take shots impossible from lower positions.

The problem with traditional three-legged sticks: They are never perfectly stable, a short-range solution. How far depends on one’s ability, and amount of practice. Most people can quickly become deadly to at least 150 yards, somewhat farther with practice. Wife Donna is awesome off sticks; despite my 40 years of practice to her 20, she’s steadier than me. Even so, 200 yards is a long poke off sticks.

Sticks-buddy: Stability off sticks can be enhanced by having a buddy grasp the sticks and offer a shoulder for the shooting elbow. Good trick to practice on the range.

With today’s equipment, many people want to shoot farther and can. There are tricks that help. A second set of sticks under the rifle butt can create a near-benchrest situation. Or, under the shooting-side armpit, what the instructors at the SAAM shooting school call “the chicken wing.” Or stabilizing the shooting side elbow. Can’t do much to change Africa’s terrain and vegetation, but this stuff, too, can be practiced at home. Never forget, all position practice can be done with a .22, reducing cost, blast, and recoil.

Last few years, many African PHs have abandoned traditional three-legged shooting sticks in favor of newer designs with additional struts that support both butt and fore-end, what I call “fore-and-aft” sticks. Sounds awkward, but they work. Like everything else, they require practice, but dual butt and fore-end support greatly enhances stability and extends range. Just how much depends on the person (and, always, how much practice), but I’m convinced they essentially double effective range off sticks. Not as steady as prone-with-bipod, but in the African context, they work.

sticks-22 — Donna Boddington practices off traditional three-legged shooting sticks with a .22. Donna is unusually steady off sticks, but three-legged sticks alone offer a short to very-medium-range solution.

With enough practice, I’m not sure there’s a limit. There are now several varieties of these fore-and-aft sticks. The first ones I saw was “4 Stable Sticks” out of France. At first I thought they were the work of Satan, but after I got the hang of them, I saw the value. Since I use prairie dog shooting as training for big game, I took a set to Wyoming a couple years ago and used them for my “roving” prairie dog shooting. A few weeks later, I used them in Africa. With a bit of practice, amazing stability.

Prone with bipod — Done right, prone with bipod is almost as steady as a bench. Useful position to master, but not practical in many field situations

I figure: If I can consistently hit prairie dogs with confidence at a couple hundred yards, then no shot at a big game animal should be daunting. I’m surprised at how frequently I’m now seeing these “fore-and-aft” sticks in Africa: I’ve encountered them recently with Zambeze Delta Safaris in Mozambique (awesome on the floodplains); and at both Frontier Safaris and John X Safaris in the Eastern Cape. Longer shots are likely there because of terrain relief, but low, prickly vegetation makes shooting prone problematic.

2023 kudu off sticks 500 yards: NOTE: LAST REFERENCE IN TEXT. Boddington and PH Fred Burchell with a good East Cape kudu taken using fore-and-aft sticks at 500 yards, a near-impossible shot off traditional three-legged shooting sticks

Last year, at Frontier, PH Fred Burchell was using fore-and-aft sticks. Last evening, near sunset, several kudu cows boiled up out of a canyon, followed by an excellent bull. Old friends, Fred and I are a good team. Sticks up, rifle steady, Fred ranging. I got on them quickly, but they were all mixed up in fading light, no chance for a shot, distance increasing. Finally, on top of the far crest, they separated. The bull lagged, 500 yards, quartering away. Take it or leave it. Common sense said to leave it, but I was steady, and both I and the rifle had been shooting well. The shot felt good, looked good, but of course they trooped over the skyline.

Bipod P-Dog — Gordon Marsh uses an old prairie dog mound to get a bit of elevation. Watch out for cacti and rattlesnakes.

The bull was stone dead just over the ridge. For me, that would have been an impossible shot off traditional three-legged sticks, and no way anyone could have shot from prone. Doubt I could have done it without practicing on prairie dogs. Which I’ll be doing in a few days, then moving onward to plains game.

SHOT AND CHOKE

I often claim that I’m the world’s worst turkey hunter. Possibly not true, but when I tell you what I did last week, you’ll believe me.

Turkey guns and loads have come a long way.

Craig Boddington

I often claim that I’m the world’s worst turkey hunter. Possibly not true, but when I tell you what I did last week, you’ll believe me. I was trying to get a Rio Grande gobbler on my kids’ place in Texas. Running out of time, I took a final cruise down the power line road, stopped foe one more call. Good grief, a gobbler cut loose. Not far away. Grabbed the shotgun, pumped the action, ducked into the woods.

: Boddington’s first gobbler taken with TSS was taken in Georgia in 2023, using a Mossberg semiauto 12-gauge with Apex No. 8 shot. The shot was past 40 yards; the bird went straight down.

I found a perfect tree to sit against, got the gun across my knees, went to work on the slate. Double gobble, closer. Couple minutes later I saw the red head. Then another. Two nice gobblers, coming straight in. Both were good birds. When they were about 30 yards away I held the bead low on the neck of the larger tom…and heard the loudest CLICK ever. Plenty loud for the turkeys, too. They were gone. My fault or the gun? I know I pumped the action, but the bolt didn’t pick up a shell. And so ended my 2024 Texas turkey hunt.

The shell that I didn’t fire was a Hornady 12-gauge three-inch, nickel-plated No. 5 shot. Those were good shells, shot several gobblers with them. Still have a few, so I may shoot another turkey before they’re gone. Provided I can remember to load my darned gun. I was sad when Hornady got out of the turkey load business. I asked why and was surprised at the answer: “Turkey loads are getting ever more specialized.”

Donna Boddington and Zack Aultman with a nice Eastern gobbler, taken with Apex No. 9 TSS in a 20-gauge Benelli.

Man, are they. Not being a truly avid (or expert) turkey hunter, I missed much of this. Those Hornady turkey loads were good shells, though not much different from good shells I’ve used most of my life: Heavy payload of high-quality nickel-plated lead shot. Today, there are at least a dozen types of shot on the market. I don’t claim to have experience with all. I’ve shot couple of turkeys with bismuth shot, pretty good stuff. One, years ago, with steel shot duck loads. It worked, but I don’t recommend that. HD and Hevi Shot, both tungsten alloys, are excellent.

I was introduced to HD on a writer’s hunt in Mississippi several years ago, with experimental HD shells from Kent. Incredibly impressive on the pattern board, used them for a couple of gobblers, equally impressive. HD and Hevi Shot are excellent, and the shells are reasonably affordable. However, they aren’t TSS. Tungsten Super Shot (TSS) is easily the deadliest shot to date. Just two years ago my Georgia friend and Eastern gobbler mentor Zack Aultman introduced me to TSS.

Based in Mississippi, heart of turkey country, Apex is just one of several smaller firms offering today’s increasingly specialized turkey loads. This is the load Boddington used in 2023, a full two ounces of No. 8 TSS in 12-gauge three-inch.

As a metal, tungsten is denser than lead. Water has density of 1 g/cc (gram to cubic centimeter). The old standby lead is 11.3 g/cc, while tungsten is a whopping 18.1 g/cc. Tungsten is both heavier and harder than lead. In effect, you can drop down three or four shot sizes, still get more penetration per pellet, and a lot more pellets in your pattern. Because it’s harder and heavier, patterns hold together better. With lead, I’ve always been a No. 5 shot guy on turkeys, although I’ve often used No. 6. Often, I hedge my bet with No. 4 as the second shell in the magazine or in the second barrel. Smaller shot for head shots, larger shot for backup body shots if needed.

Two beautiful gobblers, plenty close. The bird on the left is offering a perfect shot.

With TSS, you can drop down to 8s or 9s, no real need for larger shot for backup. It’s that effective. You can also back off a gauge or two. Less recoil in a lighter gun. With TSS, serious hunters are confidently taking turkeys with .410s. Me, I’m neither that serious, nor that confident. For years, believing bigger was surely better, I used a 10 gauge. More of a fashion statement than a necessity. I went to a 12-gauge long ago, and today I’m perfectly happy with a 20-gauge…with good shells and a tight choke.

Of these five 20-gauge turkey loads, all are TSS except the top center Magnum Blend load, which is Hevi Shot. Only the Federal Premium TSS load is from a major manufacturer.

Last year and this, I took Eastern gobblers at Zack’s place, using Apex shells, loaded in Mississippi. Last year I used a Mossberg 12 gauge with two ounces of No. 8 TSS. One shot at the pattern board to verify. No turkey was going to walk through that pattern. The gobbler I shot was farther than I like, past 40 yards. Didn’t matter.

This year, a week before my comeuppance in Texas, Zack loaned me a 20-gauge Benelli, this time with 1 5/8 ounces of Apex 8 ½ TSS. Again, one shell to verify the pattern. With young Ben Pickren on the call—13 years old and so good I stayed quiet—we had a nice tom come to about 25 yards. Straight down without a wiggle.

That’s good, but this struck me more: I held low on the neck and was concerned the pattern might have messed up the breast. Not a single pellet the breast meat, only couple pellets in the head. The pattern centered exactly where I was aiming, low on the neck. That’s tight.

These patterns were shot at 25 yards with four different 20-gauge TSS loads, using a Rob Roberts choke in a Benelli semiauto. No turkey could walk through any, but the second from left Boss Tom, 1 5/8 ounces No. 9, is clearly the most impressive

With the turkey business done, we had some time to play. Zack dug around camp, found odds and ends of five different flavors of 20-gauge TSS shells. A Federal Premium load was the only one from a major manufacturer. He also found a hatful of 20-gauge turkey chokes.

Bigger isn’t necessarily better. As I wrote in this column a year ago, I lost a turkey pasted center-chest with a 10-gauge. That was poor shot placement: the head was tucked in, bad decision. In truth, my plain-Jane 10 gauge double that I loved threw terrible patterns. Not much development in 10-gauge chokes (or shells) because it’s uncommon and not essential.

Today there are numerous options in shotshells and shot. This Kansas gobbler was taken with Kent No. 7 HD load. HD is a milder tungsten alloy, heavier than traditional lead shot, but not as costly as TSS.

Although the science is hardly new, chokes have developed along with shot and shells. Unfortunately, at the cost of TSS shells, nobody spends a lot of time on the pattern board. Too bad because there is much to learn.

Using a Primos Jellyhead choke, this pattern was fired at 25 yards with Boss Tom’s 20-gauge load, 1 5/8 ounces No. 9 TSS, an amazing pattern.

No way I was going to run through six chokes, and we didn’t have enough shells anyway. I shot my turkey with a Rob Roberts choke, so we patterned it at 25 yards with four loads. No turkey could walk through any of those patterns, but a Boss Tom No. 9 TSS load clearly patterned better than the rest, including the Apex Ninja No. 8 ½ load I’d taken my turkey with.

Sort of randomly, next we tried Primos’ Jellyhead choke tube. Again, in this choke, in this gun, on this day, the Boss Tom load won. Big time. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a pattern like that before. About 70/30 above/below point of aim, density scary just above point of aim. I prefer high-shooting shotguns and always aim below point of impact. It is said that 60/40 (60 percent above aim, 40 percent below) is ideal, but I’m okay with 70/30. As an old trapshooter, I don’t want a flat-shooting shotgun where I must cover the head. My preferred hold is low neck, so I want a high-shooting shotgun.

Dad and I hunted turkeys in Missouri in the mid-Sixties, when the Ozarks first opened. I maintain my position that I’m not a serious turkey hunter. However, with nearly 60 years of experience, my long-set habits and opinions don’t change easily. Obviously, with better, deeper-penetrating shot and denser patterns, sensible ranges are increased. I know how far some folks are shooting turkeys, but I’m not going there. At 71, it’s like open sights on a rifle. My window has shrunk. I’m a 40-yard guy, do-able with older shells as well as new. Closer is better, but not too close. I’d rather have a pattern to play with, rather than a tight ball of shot.

: Patterning a shotgun off the bench is hard work. With heavy loads, even a 20-gauge has plenty of recoil. It’s not necessary to waste expensive shells, but it’s essential to verify both point of impact and pattern with whatever load you choose.

The most important thing: Essential to pattern your shotgun. We can still kill turkeys with old-fashioned shells. We must be able to because, awesome as it is, TSS has drawbacks. Since it’s harder than lead, it cannot be used in many older shotguns. If okay with steel, it’s probably okay with TSS. I have guns than can’t use either.

Boddington and Ben Pickren with a fine Georgia gobbler, called in by Pickren and taken by Boddington at 25 yards, using a 20-gauge Benelli with Apex TSS No. 9 load.

Then, there’s cost. Frightful. Tungsten is a scarce metal, few mines in the world. Some of the shells we were gleefully flinging at paper targets were ten-dollar shells. Ouch. Although tungsten based, HD and Hevi Shot are alloys that use less tungsten, less expensive. Not as good as TSS, but better than good old lead shot…which is not damning with faint praise. Despite efficacy, I wouldn’t hunt waterfowl with TSS. A turkey, well, kind of a big-game bird. Tasty, but more a trophy hunt than a meat hunt. I baulk hard at a $10 shotgun shell. Much the same cost as .470 Nitro Express. But we only need a few: One to verify pattern and point of aim. One to kill the bird, maybe a spare just in case. With the results I’m seeing, pricey but acceptable.

THE AMAZING .45-70

The .45-70 Government was adopted by the US military in 1873. Amazing that it’s still with us today, more amazing that it’s still popular. Truth is, it almost died away. The .45-70 saw us through the plains campaigns and the last years of bison eradication, but it was our standard-issue military cartridge for just 19 years, replaced by the .30-40 Krag in 1892.

Craig Boddington

In the 1870s, no repeating actions could handle the .45-70. The 1881 Marlin lever-action came first, followed by Winchester’s answer, the Model 1886. The .45-70 was the most popular of the 1886’s 19 chamberings, but it was long gone before production ceased in 1935. Longer gone were the 1881 Marlin and the original 1895 Marlin.

Because repeaters were costly, through the 19^th Century single-shots were more popular. The .45-70 was a common chambering in most big single-shots. However, after the bison were gone and the Great Plains were pacified there was limited need large cartridges. Winchester 1885 High Wall was probably the last classic American single-shot, .45-70 just one of its many chamberings.

This custom .45-70 was built by Idaho riflemaker Jim Brockman 30 yeara ago, before Cerakote or rail mounts existed, and when the “guide gun” concept was brand new. Brockman’s rifle offered three sight options: Conventional scope, LER scope, and aperture on the rear scope base.

The original .45-70 load used a 405-grain lead bullet in front of 70 grains of blackpowder, producing 1330 fps for 1590 foot-pounds of energy. Factory loads were converted to smokeless powder, but because the trapdoor Springfield action is not strong, pressures were kept mild and original ballistics maintained.

Factory ammunition remained available, but from about 1930 no new .45-70 rifles were made. Bill Ruger gets credit for starting the comeback. People thought he was crazy when he brought out his Ruger No. 1 in 1966, the first modern centerfire single-shot. Some folks thought he was even crazier when, early on, he chambered his No. 1 to .45-70, an almost-forgotten relic.

Handloaders already knew what the .45-70 could do in strong actions. Also, thanks to the early success of the .458 Win Mag, introduced in 1956, the .45-70’s .458-inch bullets were common. Gunwriter John Wootters was among the early purchasers of a Ruger No. 1 in .45-70. He took it to Mozambique where, among other animals, it accounted for a huge leopard.

The time of reintroductions and reproductions wasn’t yet, but the .45-70 was back. Its return was secured in 1972 when Marlin introduced their 1895 lever-action in .45-70. Marlin took the name from their original 1895, but the “new” 1895 is based entirely on the 336 action. The process started in 1964 with the Model 444, an internally enlarged 336 adapted to the powerful .444 Marlin. Eight years later, Marlin went a step farther, hogging out the strong 336 action to house the big .45-70.

: This Texas hog was the first animal taken with a Ruger/Marlin 1895 in .45-70. Although the .45-70 has many uses, Boddington loves it for hog hunting: Ranges are usually close, and the .45-70 speaks with authority.

The new Marlin 1895 opened the floodgates, introducing a new generation to the .45-70’s hard-hitting short-range power. Standard factory .45-70 loads are still loaded to mild pressures, ensuring safe use in trapdoor Springfields. Marlin’s 1895 spurred ammunition manufacturers to create a new generation of .45-70 loads, pressures still mild, but with lighter bullets loaded faster, increasing energy and flattening trajectory. Long standard, loaded by multiple firms, is a 300-grain bullet at 1880 fps, yielding 2355 ft-lbs.

Since lever-action 45-70s have tubular magazines, downrange performance was hampered by the necessity to use blunt-nosed bullets. Hornady changed this in 2006 with their Flex-Tip-eXpanding (FTX) bullet with compressible polymer tip, the first sharp-pointed bullet safe for use in tubular magazines. In their LEVERevolution line, these were mated with new propellants that increased velocity without excessive pressure. Their 325-grain FTX is loaded to 2000 fps, yielding 2886 ft-lbs.

Today, the 1895 Marlin has been joined by newly manufactured Winchester 1886s, and Henry’s .45-70. Also, numerous big single-shots on old and new actions. Standard .45-70 loads continue with mild pressures, but there are ascending grades of .45-70, always available to handloaders. Hornady’s loading manual lists three sets of data for the .45-70: Trap Door, 1895 Marlin, and Ruger #1. Similarly, specialty ammo makers like Cor-Bon and Garrett offer .45-70 loads tailored to various action strengths.

: Boddington’s friend Bobby Dierks used his Henry .45-70 with Hornady FTX bullet and Leupold red-dot sight to take this awesome Kansas buck…at 200 yards. Tough shot with a .45-70 and/or a red dot, but obviously possible.

With heavy loads in strong actions, the .45-70 transcends the big woods cartridge it was long considered, to a serious thumper adequate for the biggest bears and baddest Cape buffaloes.

Part of this ammo revolution, and the .45-70’s resurgence, is based on the popularity of the “guide gun.” Whether Henry, Marlin, or Winchester ’86, the guide gun is simply a big lever-action somewhat updated. Usually with shorter barrel, perhaps a rail mount with ghost-ring aperture, rust-proof finish, laminate or synthetic stock.

The first “guide gun” I ever saw (before I heard the term) was a lovely Marlin .45-70 by Idaho custom maker Jim Brockman. Neither rail mounts nor Cerakote existed, but this rifle had it all: Matte metal, flat black stock. Three sight options: Detachable forward-mounted Long Eye Relief scope on the barrel and detachable 1.75-5x20mm scope on the receiver, rear receiver base also housing an aperture. Deadly accurate, this rifle was far ahead of its time. Wish I’d bought it.

: A fine Texas whitetail, taken with the Ruger/Marlin 1895 .45-70 using 325-grain Hornady FTX. We could agree that the .45-70 is more powerful than needed, but it drops deer with authority, little tracking required.

I didn’t, but I have a long history with the .45-70. The first animal I took with it was a big Arizona mountain lion in 1979. Not with a rifle, but with a JD Jones .45-70 barrel on a T/C Contender. In a handgun, the .45-70 is all the fun anyone needs!

Years later, I took a massive bison bull with a Wesson & Harrington break-open single-shot. I used .45-70 cases loaded to .45-90 specs, using 415-grain hard-case bullets. They exited the far side. A big bison is 25 percent larger than a Cape buffalo, so I know, unequivocally, that a .45-70 with good loads is adequate for African buffalo. In between, and still, a lot of pig hunting and close-range deer hunting with .45-70s, much of it preceding the “guide gun” phenomenon.

The lever-action is uniquely American, so “guide gun” is generally interpreted in Noth American context: A rifle a guide carries for in extremis use when hunting big bears. The concept is seductive, and big lever-actions became popular. Toward the tail end, Marlin was offering the 1895 .45-70 in many configurations. Despite parent company Remington’s impending doom, they were selling all they could make.

On the bench with one of the first Ruger/Marlin 1895s in .45-70. In stainless steel with laminate stock, this rifle had a wonderfully smooth action and produced near-MOA groups at 100 yards.

Ruger acquired Marlin from the ashes and tooled up to make lever-actions. I assumed they would start with a .30-30, but the first Ruger Marlin was a short-barreled 1895 .45-70 in stainless and synthetic. “Why” is simple: In latter Remington/Marlin production, .45-70s outsold .30-30s two to one. Good on the old warhorse .45-70!

The problem with the guide gun concept: Few of us hunt big bears or guide in big bear country, and the purposes aren’t the same. A bear guide should carry a fast-handling, powerful repeater. A bear hunter must carry a rifle that will stop a bear, also has adequate range. With proper loads, the .45-70 is powerful enough. On the latter count, I’m not convinced.

45-70 Group: Although at its best for short-range use, the .45-70 is often exceptionally accurate. This is a latter-production Remington/Marlin in “guide gun” configuration, fitted with an Aimpoint red-dot sight.

A young friend had a chance to go on an Alaskan brown bear hunt. He considered a lever-action .45-70. I talked him out of it. A 200-yard shot would be possible, but difficult. He chose a scoped bolt-action, got a nice bear. I hunted brown bear in Alaska last fall, never got a shot. Going again this spring. I have a Ruger/Marlin 1895 .45-70. Wonderfully accurate, wears a good scope. Love to take a big bear with that rifle, but I’m not taking it. Too costly a hunt to take chances! Last fall, I carried an accurate, well-scoped .338, same gun this spring. If my one chance is past 200 yards I can take it with confidence. Possible with a .45-70, but risky.

Co bison 45-70: This huge bison bull was taken with a Wesson & Harrington break-open single-shot .45-70. Hard cast bullets loaded to .45-90 specs gave through-and-through penetration, convincing Boddington the .45-70 is fully adequate for large bovines…with the right loads.

It’s not that the .45-70 isn’t capable of extreme accuracy or long-range shooting. Rather, its arcing trajectory makes longer shots difficult. And although big bullets always hit hard, they lose energy fast. I’d hunt Cape buffalo with a .45-70 before I’d take it for a big bear. I know I’m not going to shoot a buffalo past 100 yards. On a bear hunt, likely just one chance. I want to be certain I can take that shot with confidence.

So, whether you call it a guide gun or just a big lever-action, I see the grand old .45-70 as ideal for situations where you know the shot will be close. Perfect for pigs, awesome for black bear over bait or with hounds. Ideal for thick cover whitetail hunting. Overgunned, maybe, but not much tracking!

45-70 recoil: This Remington-production Marlin .45-70 “guide gun” is caught in peak recoil. Although more of a hard push than a sharp blow, the .45-70 is a powerful cartridge generating significant recoil, especially off the bench.

Let’s be fair: With modern loads and optical sights, the .45-70 is not a bayonet-range rifle. Couple seasons back my friend Bobby Dierks had a big Kansas buck up on an opposite ridge. He had his Henry .45-70 with Leupold red-dot sight, figured about 200 yards. He held the dot on the backline and dropped the buck. Fine shot with a .45-70…and with a red dot. Also, a great buck, entered into Boone and Crockett’s records at 173 typical. Regardless of game, circumstance, or load, the .45-70 is slow and its bullets drop quickly…but hit hard when they get there.